One Friday, Amy and Peter were worn out, and decided to take a restful day in Meiringen. Amy knew I wanted to go on a bike ride during the trip, so Saturday became the day. Swiss Rail rents bikes at the stations. When I went to reserve one, I was lucky to get the last one. Saturdays are a busy day for bicycling! For 21 Swiss Francs, a 21 speed cross country/commuter style bike was mine for the day. That Saturday was one of the most spectacularly beautiful days we had the entire trip. The weather was in the mid seventies and sunny all day.
A few years ago, Switzerland created a nationwide bicycle system called the Velowandern. Bike routes are marked by little red signs, and avoid heavy traffic. On the Velowandern routes bicycles have right of way and cars do yield. I have never seen automobile drivers so polite and cautious of bicyclists. From Meiringen, the route follows the Aare river along paved country lanes towards Brienzersee (Lake Brienz). As it nears the lake, it divides towards Giessbach or Brienz. We had been through Brienz on the train and I wanted to see Giessbach Falls and Isletwald, so I chose left. Up to now the route had been flat and easy. That soon changed. It climbed from lake level, steeply up high above the lake. I was glad the bike had the 21 gears, not the seven Untours had claimed. Even so, I got off and pushed the bike at one point. A narrow country road, it finally leveled out near Giessbach. Below was the bright aquamarine lake and Brienz on the opposite shore. Giessbach Falls were spectacular, and from the falls the Giessbach Hotel was framed by a view of the lake. At this point I should mention that my bike was not in the immaculate shape that was widely claimed. The brakes were in horrible shape. I wondered about them outside of Meiringen, but didn’t realize how bad until I headed down from Giessbach. This was a gravel paved path, and very steep. The brakes squealed all of the way down and I had to brake far too often too keep from gaining so much speed that they would not stop me at all. Even so, the ride was a dream. Isletwald was something from a picture book, a dreamy little hamlet on the shore of the lake, with a small, protected boat harbor. At this point, I had only a relatively short ride to Interlaken, which I reached by 10:00 AM. I had decided before I left that I needed to reach Interlaken by noon. The route through Interlaken was classic European-the river, the lake, beautiful parks and a few people out enjoying the wonderful morning. I had a plan for my bike too. I knew the train station in Interlaken would have bikes and therefore they needed bike mechanics. I planned to drop off the bike to be repaired while I explored the city on foot. Fate would delay that plan. I knew from an earlier trip were the station was, and how I needed to approach it, but before I knew it I had whisked by to another part of town. I stopped to get my bearings. I was hungry and a little spent. I sat on a bench under a tree and drank some water. I needed food, to pick up a couple of rolls or some bread. I also still had a broken bike to take care of.
When I looked around, I knew I was in the right place. This bench was in front of a bakery. Two wonderful rolls from the bakery, one to eat now and one for later! Things are going ok. Then I look around while I sit and eat my roll and across the intersection is my kind of store-The Eiger Connection. Probably 10,000 square feet of outdoor clothing, outdoor and climbing gear, and a bicycle section. I had wanted to get a Swiss bicycle jersey, and this looked like the place. I had a great time looking around, but the only bicycle jersey that I couldn’t get someplace in the states was one designed for the store. Too bad is was pink and black on a white background, not my colors. It was fun looking anyway. Time to get back to the train station and see if I can solve my bike problem.
I got back easily, and after walking around the station twice find the bicycle storage, but nobody inside Soon somebody is going in and I ask if he handles the bikes, but he understands no English. I speak my pidgin German and point, demonstrate and he is amazed I rode down from Giessbach on those brakes. Inside, another guy speaks good English. They have a good time deriding the Meiringen station for letting a bike go out in such poor shape. Amazingly, they don’t try and fix the bike, the switch it out for another! They make a notation on my rental receipt and tell me all I have to do is show it when I turn the bike in at Meiringen. I’m not so sure, but what else can I do. Returning your bike at a different station requires and extra fee. It remained to be seen what would happen in Meiringen.
By that time it was a little after noon. I sat and ate my lunch of Hasliberg cheese, bread, fruit and chocolate by the Aare River in a riverside park, sitting on a park bench. This is how bicycling is supposed to be!
I still had a 30K ride home (18 or so miles), and didn’t relish climbing up to Giessbach again, so I completed the circuit around Brienzerzee by heading back through Brienz on the opposite side of the lake. The route here was shared with motorcars, but they still maintained their excellent manners and never passed with out adequate clearance. I have never felt so safe sharing a road with cars. This route was flatter, yet no less beautiful. It closely followed the lake-shore, through each of the small towns. All along the way were pull offs and park benches with views of the lake, Giessbach and Isletwald. Many bicyclists were out, most of them on road bikes or mountain bikes with street tires. It truly is a bicycle and pedestrian friendly country. By 2:00 I was back to the other end of the lake, by three back to Meiringen, quite please with my day. The finale was at the Meiringen station where the bike was no problem and the station clerk was quite please with my handling of the situation.
When I got back to Maelchplatz I was surprised to find out Amy and Peter had not done anything all day. Peter refused to go without me and they spent the day relaxing at the apartment.
Heartland Untours, Switzerland 2001